Category Archives: Camera Companies

Canon G12 HDR Settings

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I’ve gotten this question via email almost  a dozen times.  So I’m going to cut and paste the response I send to folks.

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The Question they ask? All are along the lines as the following one… (and asked because Canon’s manual doesn’t cover it well).

“”"Can you help me out as I have not been able to find anything in the manual on how to increase the EV spacing between frames when in bracketing mode (for HDR Capture) with my Canon G12.”"”

ANSWER:

When I’m in AV mode, I press the center button “Func.Set” to bring up the menu.  White balance is the top choice and I scroll down one to the bracketing so that it now shows the three options.  When you select bracketing to be turned on you can immediately press the “DISP.” button to bring up the AEB options.  The scroll wheel on the back of the camera is what you turn to change the settings for the +/- for AEB.

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The pain in the ___ for me is when.. lets say I have bracketing currently set to do +/- 2EV between shots and I want to go back to +/- 1 between frames…

… you again press the Func.Set button and if I had turned the camera off at some point it defaults to selecting WB and I have to scroll down one to get to the bracketing.  Once there in the bracketing as long as the camera is in bracketing mode, you can then hit the DISP. button to bring up AEB and then use the scroll wheel to change it to whatever is needed for that scene.

I mostly just leave it in +/-2 because I’m usually using the G12 for landscapes, but when I do want a less aggressive bracket for a mild scene, that is a lot of button pressing to do just to get to the AEB options… but for a point and shoot, I guess I should just be pleased I have that control at all  :)

(complaining over)

 

Sigma SD1

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Sigma just announced their new flagship DSLR the Sigma SD1. They have a microsite showing the history of the company and foveon as it relates to Sigma DSLRs.

46 megapixel 24×16mm APS-C X3 Full-colour image sensor
The 46 megapixel (4,800×3,200×3 layers) 24×16mm APS-C X3 direct image sensor featured in the Sigma SD1 captures all primary RGB colours at each and every pixel location, ensuring the capture of full and complete colour. Using three silicon-embedded layers of photo detectors, stacked vertically to take advantage of silicon’s ability to absorb red, green and blue light at different respective depths, it efficiently reproduces colour more accurately, and offers sharper resolution, pixel for pixel, than any conventional image sensor. Since colour moiré is not generated, the use of a low-pass filter is not required, meaning light and colour, generated by the 46 megapixel APS-C X3 direct image sensor, is captured with a three-dimensional feel.

I have said this before and I’ll say it again… the foveon sensor has amazing dynamic range. That used in conjunction with their proprietary raw processing software (included free with their cameras) gives you access to a unique slider unlike any other raw processing app which acts like a tonemapper on the raw data.  This makes the SD14 an amazing tool even today in 2010 (I shoot with both a Nikon D3 and Sigma SD14).  I can’t wait to see the images off the Sigma SD1.

Specs aren’t out yet, but if they at least match the AEB capabilities of the SD15 which shoots 5aeb, I’ll be thrilled.

Nikon D7000

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Nikon D7000 = Two steps forward, one giant step back (for HDR)

The Nikon D7000 is limited to 3aeb.  BUT! Nikon in their infinite lack of wisdom has decided to further cripple HDR shooters by making that 3aeb limited to maximum steps of only 1EV between frames  (see update *****). Hence “one giant step back”.

***** 36 hours after the D7000 announcment, Nikon updated their website and marketing PDF to reflect a mistake on their part.  The mistake was forgetting to show that the max EV step for the D7000 was 2EV not 1EV as they had previously reported.  The below still applies to attempt to get in three bursts what you can get natively in a D300/D3/D700.

So why did I say “Two steps forward”?  Because the main dial on the top of the camera has dedicated U1 and U2 settings for custom settings.  One could set their U1 dial to have exposure compensation set to -3 and the U2 dial set with exposure compensation set to +3.  That way with three 6fps bursts and two spins of the dial you can end up with a 9 frame bracket from -4 to +4 equal to the bracket you get natively with a D300/D3/D700. Slightly out of order and messy to deal with in LightRoom, Bridge, etc., but at least covers the scene.

One should be able to initially set up a 3aeb with 1EV steps and fire off a bracket at 6fps to capture the frames at -1, 0, +1, then turn to U1 on the dial (previously set for -3 exposure compensation) to capture -4, -3, -2 and then turn the dial to U2 (previously set for +3 exposure compensation) to capture 2, 3, 4 to complete a series from -4 to +4 with 1EV steps.

Simple?  Clean?  No, but at least its an option (based on how I am reading Nikon USA website and camera settings).

1-3-2011 Note:
New Post on Nikon D7000 HDR here…
http://hdriblog.com/nikon-d7000-hdr/

Pentax K-r

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Pentax just slipped a DSLR in between their K-7 and K-x models.

Introducting the Pentax K-r

NOTEWORTHY MENTIONS

  • 6fps for continuous shooting. Very nice for quick HDR captures.
  • New Night Scene HDR Mode
  • Improved HDR Mode (adds auto alignment in camera and better blending modes)
  • Same 921,000 resolution and 3 inch LCD like the K-7
  • 1/6000 shutter speed
  • 100-25,600 ISO

PENTAX USA K-r Product Page

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PENTAX IMAGING USA K-r YouTube VIDEO

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xaD3E2FtkJo[/youtube]

Also, I still have my Pentax K-x, but don’t use it often enough.  It’s a fun little camera and great image quality.  The K-r looks like it inherited most of the goodies of the K-x and even better goodies of the K-7.   My K-x reviews are:

HERE: http://hdriblog.com/pentax-k-x-review/

and

HERE: http://hdriblog.com/pentax-k-x-initial-test/

Canon G12 HDR

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The rumor (but posted as a press release by CNET Asia) this morning is that the Canon G12 will get both an HDR mode for stills and video.

CRUNCH GEAR HAS MORE DETAILS

There is mention of an HDR stills mode using brackets, but I’m going to go ahead and assume that the HDR Video mode is some kind of pulling down highlights and raising shadows in camera on the chip, on the fly.

Spheron HDR Video

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Spheron HDR Video camera footage

Spheron HDR video – footage from SpheronVR AG on Vimeo.

I would have LOVED to have seen some dramatic backlit scenes as examples.  I was most interested in the lighting examples around the 3 minute mark in the above video because of the way you can relight shadows due to the latitude in the file/capture.

Full Spheron Press Release here: http://bit.ly/bnjShW

Dynamic Range of Sensors

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Dynamic range of sensors varies from camera to camera. You might be surprised by the (updated) chart below because the dynamic range of sensors is not as directly related to camera costs as you might think. You’ll notice that some mid level DSLRs are way ahead of the curve over other camera’s pro level cameras when it comes to dynamic range of the sensor.  This test was conducted by DXOmark.com and you can go there to read about how the tests were conducted.

|||—— UPDATED FOR NEW CAMERAS TESTED BY DXOmark.com —–|||

What is important and relevant to HDRI is the dynamic range of your sensor. It really matters.  Unless you taking large and tight brackets of each scene then it really, really, REALLY matters even moreso than you think.  If you are following a technique taught by someone using say a D3x and they tell you all you need is X shots, but you are using a camera at the bottom of the chart below and taking the same number… there is no way you can match that person’s results. Its mathematically impossible.

I get asked all the time how many shots do I take when I shoot, but nobody asks me with what camera.  Everyone assumes they are all about the same for HDR.  They aren’t.

Gear used for capturing brackets for HDR is even more critical if you are only taking 3 shots.  It will directly impact the quality of your HDR file. IF YOU ARE SHOOTING FOR VFX WORK THIS IS SLIGHTLY LESS CRITICAL THAN IF YOU WILL BE TONEMAPPING FOR REALISM (only slightly less though).

I’ve captured and tonemapped over 13,000 images for architecture, real estate and commercial shoots.  I’ve forfeited all my vacation time the last 4 years just to do intensive testing about what works better.  Gear, post production, you name it.

I’m pretty obsessive compulsive about trying to get a realistic looking image for real estate interiors and I’ve bought and/or rented about 40% of the cameras on this list below. DXOmark.com seems on the mark as far as my personal results are concerned.

Dynamic Range of Camera Sensors (I chose to focus on modern day digital models only)

No test is perfect. DXOmark has attempted to do this objectively, but because ISO/Noise and how cameras can handle scenes, colors and other differing factors, this should not be the only way to base your purchasing decision.  For example…

Someone could use the Canon 1000D (also known as the Canon XS) plus a piece of gear to get pro HDR captures.

If you bought that entry level Canon 1000D/XS for $400+ and a PROMOTE CONTROL for $299, (which will soon be adding HDR Timelapse to its functions in addition to HDR capture and standard Timelapse), then you could take very large and tight brackets with the Promote Control attached to your 1000D/XS that will capture well beyond what the in camera AEB capabilities of every single camera on that chart above.  Yes, including a D3x or 1Ds Mark III.  Sometimes the piece of “kit” you add to the mix can make a lower end device perform very well (dynamic range speaking here).  Of course the pixel quality of a D3x/1DsMarkIII is easily better than a Canon XS, but at the cost of $8000 it should be.

Pentax k-x review

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I’ve recently used the Pentax k-x a bit more to test out the in camera HDR feature.  At first I was under whelmed, but like usual, I messed with settings on my own until I got results I’m happy with.  Maybe not elated with, but happy/satisfied.  First I’ll post a few images, then I’ll explain how I tweaked camera settings to get to a warm, happy place.  Again, these shots were not single frame captures, they utilized the Pentax k-x merge to HDR (in camera) feature and then I tweaked them quickly in post. (They were all taken with the Pentax K-x “kit” lens)






I initially discussed the Pentax k-x some time ago and you can see my comments and test shots from that post: http://hdriblog.com/pentax-k-x-initial-test/

I still do not like the results from using the “HDR Strong” which is also HDR 2 under the two in camera HDR settings.  ”HDR Standard” which is also HDR 1 under the menu settings is less dramatic and the following workflow is what I used to get the image results above.

If you’ve never tried this k-x setting you need to do a few things to your camera settings…

1. Press the MENU button to go into the Menu settings and change file format to JPEG and press the menu button again to get back to the typical LCD settings.

2. Then press the INFO button which is just above the Menu button. On the top line over to the right four squares is the menu option “HDR OFF“.  You can change this option two ways.  You can highlight that option and then use the scroll wheel with your thumb moving it to the right to flip to HDR 1, then HDR 2  –OR– you can highlight HDR OFF and press the OK button and then a screen pops up with the three options and just select the one you want and hit OK again.  Obviously, the fastest way to do this is the first way I described.  Highlight HDR OFF and then use the scroll wheel to change it to HDR 1 or HDR 2.  You’ll see shortly why that scroll wheel is the better option.

Each of the images above are a combination of two captures that I brought into photoshop.  Those two captures which were shot from the EXACT same location on a tri-pod were taken by….

1. First taking a shot using the “HDR-1″ setting (also called HDR Standard).
2. Press and hold the shutter so that it takes the 3 consecutive shots (it is auto bracketing and will then immediately process the three shots over the next 10-12 seconds).
3. Then hit the INFO button & scroll the wheel to the right once to select “HDR-2″ (also called HDR Strong) and again press/hold the shutter to fire off the second bracket.

Now here’s the key… Before taking each exposure I forced the exposure compensation to at LEAST +1EV for each of the above outside shots and adjusted the interior shots up by almost +2EV.  That can be changed by using your right index finger and holding down the button just to the left of the shutter then use your right thumb to scroll the wheel to the right to increase the EV number.  Why do this? …

.. because I found if you fire off the camera when in either of the two HDR modes with exposure compensation set at ZERO, the merge to HDR and in camera tonemapping seems to over crush the highlights and you end up with very “dirty” mid tones and darker shadows than you would want ideally.

The camera is of course firing off three images. One under exposed, one middle, one over exposed.  It then merges those 3 bracketed shots to HDR in-camera, it then processes and tonemaps the HDR and saves the result as a JPEG.  You can’t get anything but a JPEG as a final file (unfortunately).

When I got back from shooting, I would then open the first shot (HDR 1 / HDR Standard) in photoshop.  Then FILE>PLACE the second image  (HDR  2 / HDR Strong) over top of the first image. I then drop the opacity of the top layer (HDR Strong) to about 30% as a starting point and then change its blend mode in the layers palette to either OVERLAY or SOFT LIGHT.  Then I just adjust opacity of that layer up or down to get the feel of the image to a satisfying level.  Save and export.

You may find that you like the HDR Strong layer better than the HDR Standard (your call and whatever floats your boat).  If so, simply reverse the layers so that the bottom layer is HDR Strong image and with the standard NORMAL blend mode and then have the top level be the HDR Standard image and change its opacity and blend mode as described above.

GOTCHAS - If you moved the camera slightly when you switched the camera menu settings between shots, you may need to use Photoshop’s align feature.  You click the bottom layer and shift select the other layer so they are both selected.  Then from the file menu EDIT>AUTO ALIGN LAYERS to have photoshop align the pixels.

UPSIDE:
You don’t need to do any MERGE to HDR and tonemapping because the Pentax k-x HDR Mode is doing that for you.

DOWNSIDE:
Fast moving objects make this two pronged approach a challenge and works best with static scenes. You need to use a tri-pod for best results. The time the k-x takes to process each shot can slow you down when shooting like this. You need a program that utilizes blend modes like Photoshop or a free application like GIMP (which is an open source, photoshop “like” app).

Medium Format HDR (in camera)

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Medium format, meet HDR. HDR meet medium format.

PENTAX 40 megapixel 645D Medium Format SLR Camera $9400 US Dollars

HDR NOTES OF INTEREST
1. Shoots a bracket, merges to HDR and merges IN CAMERA
2. Single shot Dynamic Range Expansion to handle highlights and Shadows

Pentax has finally released the Pentax 645D which is a 40mp medium format camera. Rather than list the massive breakdown of the camera specs I’ll simply link the press release below.
http://www.pentax.jp/english/news/2010/201008.html

The in-camera HDR capture/merge function is of course of particular interest to me, but I’ve yet to find what controls one has (for example: amount of bracketing/steps).

Other noteworthy features listed (but no juicy specifics) are:

INTERVAL SHOOTING

EXPOSURE BRACKETING

EXTENDED BRACKETING

I’ll post more if I find specifics, but don’t get too excited.  The release is initially limited to sales in Japan only.

SD15 AEB Clarification

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SIGMA SD15

I had previously discussed the new Sigma SD15 and its new 5 AEB feature.  What I just learned is that the SD15 has the following AEB capabilities:

With 3 frames for Auto Bracketing : 1/3EV Stops Up to ±3EV
Maxing the steps between each shot would lead to under exposed to over exposed as follows:
[ -3.0, 0, +3.0 ]

With 5 frames for Auto Bracketing : 1/3EV Stops Up to ±1.7EV
Maxing the steps between each shot would lead to under exposed to over exposed as follows:
[ -3.3, -1.7, 0, +1.7, +3.3 ]

I would have loved to have seen jumps of at least 2.0EV between each shot on the 5 AEB capture mode for some wide dynamic range scenes, but the new 5 AEB setting is a welcome one.  At the price point the Sigma SD15 is set at ($859 through Amazon Pre-Orders), it is the widest bracket you can get for the money.  Nothing even comes close for that price point.