I’m doing this because I never have time to do this when I am grinding through shoots on a weekly basis.  I’ll have the time to do so when I’m away.  I’ve always been curious about comparing cameras shot in the same light with the same lens to see what differences you get. I’m not bringing all my gear, but enough to be considered certifiably insane.

I’ll be messing around with the following cameras during the shootout:

Canon T2i / 550D
Pentax K-x
Sigma SD9
Sigma SD14
Nikon D3

I already use the D3 and SD14 extensively on a weekly basis for HDR work (real estate), but will be torturing them in different ways on the trip.  I’ll shoot the D3 and SD14 for HDR Timelapse simultaneously side by side, both with wide angle lenses. I expect the results will be like shooting with two different film stocks, but I’ll find out for sure in post.

Also I will be swapping out (removing) the Sigma SD14 SA mount and installing a custom Nikon F-mount on the SD14 using a 3rd party solution. I have three SD14 bodies so I’m willing to risk bricking one for the team.  This will allow me to test the Canon T2i and Sigma SD14 using Nikkor Primes (in the case of the canon, via a F-mount to EF mount adaptor).

So I’ll be testing the Canon T2i vs the Sigma SD14 with the following Nikkor Primes (which have aperture rings):

20mm f/2.8D
24mm f/2.8 AI-S
28mm f/2.8 AI-S
50mm f/1.4 AI-S
85mm f/1.4D
105mm f/2.5  AI-S

I’ll be curious to see which camera resolves detail better… the latest 2010 release from Canon ( T2i / 550D ) or the 3 1/2 year old Sigma SD14 that tied the Canon 5D in multiple head to head image tests worldwide.  Also (and more important to me in many ways) I want to see which camera captures more dynamic range per shot (single shots).  And finally, I’ll fire off brackets with the same settings on each camera to then merge to HDR to see if there are differences there as well.  I’ll do this while testing various white balance settings, including custom white balance settings on each camera.

Just so that I don’t completely geek out the entire trip I’m also planning to setup some kind of high fashion shoot with Las Vegas models – MUAs and Hair Stylists.  I’ll test out some multiple speedlite setups on some models as guinea pigs as I have on models in the past (all my model shoots are actually new gear test shoots and I tell them this up front).

Past guinea pigs:
http://digitalcoastimage.com/models.html

I might add something else to the mix, but so far these are tests I plan to do for sure.

Knowing that’s what she wanted, HDR was going to make creating that look quite easy.  I could have toned down the colors or not tried to crush so much dynamic range into an 8 bit range, but I ramped it in there because she LOVES color. If you saw her home you’d be a believer.

Could I instead just have blasted them with flash from the front to try and balance the blazing sunset? Yes, but if you’ve shot directly into the sun like this yourself then you know I would have had to have HAMMERED them with flash and the shot ends up having an entirely different feel to it.

Here is a larger version linked below (hosted on my photography website):
http://www.digitalcoastimage.com/hdr_portrait.html

The technique is a bit tricky.  This is what I do.  There may be a better way, but without a tri-pod and because I’m dealing with humans not a static subject, this is what I’ve managed to piece together.

It’s hand held, I’m shooting with a heavily back lit subject directly into a blazing sun.  I say tricky because I am firing off flash on the first image of the bracketed sequence.  The D3 allows you to choose the order of an automated exposure bracketed series and I chose to have it shoot the middle exposure first, then it moves to under exposed to over exposed. The D3 shoots at 9 frames per second and the SB-800 can’t recycle fast enough so the flash only has true power on the first blast so when the second frame fires the speedlite is spent momentarily and only gets off enough flash to slightly light the subjects as the camera is rapidly ripping through those under to over exposed frames.

Many times I will only need to use the first exposure along with the first couple of under exposed frames to get the image I need.

Now depending on your camera, and the speed at which it shoots (FPS) + the type of speedlite you are using + the settings you have the speedlite set to, etc…. your results may vary. The camera is set to shoot on continuous shutter release for this automatic exposure bracket.  I normally shoot a 5aeb to 7aeb with 1EV steps between and will often not need the fifth frame which is the most over exposed and the longest shutter speed (sometimes movement by then).  This because I shoot with a D3 which has a maximum EV jump of 1EV between frames. I’d guess that this technique would work equally well if you had a 3aeb camera and set it to do +/-2.0 EV jumps, but I have not tested that myself.  Likely all you would need is the middle shot and under exposed to get the composite correct in post.

Post production for these shots can be handled in a ton of different ways, such as either beginning in LightRoom and using the Enfuse plugin to fuse images, alternatively one could take individual frames into Photoshop and layer them and mask in where needed.  Regardless, the editing ends in photoshop brining in the first frame with the flash fired to mask with the properly exposed background (and your subject will be underexposed in that non-flash image).

The biggest issue is whether you were steady when you fired off the burst because the quality of either fusing the working with layers and masking will depend largely on that.  Even though images can be “aligned” in post, that process does compromise the image quality to some degree.  Movement  also complicates masking in the single/flash frame in post, although you’d be surprised how much wiggle room you actually have if you are pretty good at dealing with layers and masking in photoshop.

I probably would not attempt this technique with a camera that shoots slower than 5fps unless using a tripod. I have not attempted this with a camera that shoots 3fps so I can’t say for certain the results you’d get with a slower FPS camera.  The margin for error with the longer time between frames means either you or your subject is more prone to movement.  I’ve occasional had difficulty holding still even at 5fps on a 40D (some time ago), but I have never attempted this at 3fps and probably would have a higher failure rate with those longer moments between frames.

Additionally, your subjects need to understand how critical it is to remain still.  Good communication and/or with a countdown helps.  Blinking is not as big of a deal after the first shot fires because you’ll mask in that first shot anyway.  However, if they drift at all during the capture, then that movement can be problematic aligning images in post.

I always shoot these sequences in RAW because obviously the white balance of the flash hitting your subject may be an issue with the other shots that follow not synching with whatever ambient lighting exists. You’ll definitely suffer more if shooting JPEG when dealing with exposure adjustments and color balance issues this technique requires.

If you choose to attempt this in a more normal lighting environment, then obviously using flash might not be needed at all and you would just treat the shot like any hand held HDR capture.