A quick video showing a 7aeb with the Canon T3/1100D using the promote control.
This is just a quick video clip to show that the T3 is working properly with the Promote Control when adding the extra shutter release cable. It works at a slower capture speed (FPS) when using USB only.
For some reason this was not working with the T2i/550D (the extra shutter release cable).
KEY POINT: The T3 is shooting RAW and the T3 can only shoot 2 Frames Per Second in RAW capture and a buffer of 5 images shooting RAW. So the slight delay you hear after the first 5 RAWs captured is in fact due to the buffer being hit in the 7aeb.
Canon T3 / 1100D sample image. Created with the trusty Promote Control to bracket much larger than a Canon can do natively. Shot with the Sigma 8-16mm f/4.5-5.6 DC HSM (at 8mm). (O.K. so I forgot to move the hand soap directly ahead which fills the doorway…. sue me!)
Once again the promote control turns an entry level DSLR into a HDRI capture device. Brilliant.
I know it’s been awhile since I posted anything on the blog or on Twitter. I’ve been dealing with terrible health challenges. I’ve spent more time getting treatments, tests, blood work, chelation therapy, detox programs and on and on. It has consumed my time the last couple of months. Hope to be back soon, but the docs can’t pin point the exact issue aside from high levels of toxins and metals in my blood (hence detox and chelation therapy). I wouldn’t wish this on anyone. I have about 4-6 hours of energy a day… sometimes less. Dizzy spells keep me off the computer too. Geez. When your grandmom tells you that you’ve got nothing if you don’t have your health. She ain’t jokin’.
The only reason I have the T3 is a real estate photographer wanted into my HDR Training for Real Estate Photography beta even though it is still not finished. So I told her if she drop shipped a new T3 kit so I could test it, I’d let her in. I didn’t actually expect her to do it!!! So here’s my first use with it and a few comments.
This is NOT a full Canon T3 review, just my quick take.
Dynamic Range seems to be no better than XS / 1000D
Image Quality seems to be no better than XS / 1000D
Video and higher ISO abilities make it a great upgrade to the XS / 1000D
Body is made of a smooth plastic and reminds me of a child’s toy (hate it)
Random comments in the YouTube video about my new Canon 60D and using the Sigma 8-16mm f/4.5-5.6 DC HSM. Also discussions about 3aeb vs 9aeb and Canon’s 1D/1Ds 7aeb custom functions.
Over the weekend I uploaded some HDR Timelapse Video to both my Vimeo and YouTube accounts (links below). It is part HDR Timelapse and part HDR Video. The HDR Timelapse segments are obvious because the tripod is locked off. What I am calling HDR Video is pseudo HDR video in my book. Those pans in the garden and architectural interiors are actually just still frames that are blended in video editing software to create frames between each still frame.
There are many flaws in the architectural segments because the video software guessed at pixel movement between each frame shot and you’ll see wavy lines appear briefly a few times. Also, because I panned the camera by such a large amount between each still frame shot, the software had trouble creating all the in between frames (which also contributes to the large stair step feeling in the pans). I was tempted to not include these shots because they are flawed, but figured I might as well to at least showcase the fact that each still is a tonemapped image from a 9 shot bracket taken with a Nikon D3 (each merged to HDR, then tonemapped of course).
Again, each frame is actually a bracket of images that were merged to HDR and then tonemapped. Many sequences were shot with a Nikon D3 set to auto bracket 9 shots from under exposed to over exposed with 1EV jumps between each of those 9 frames. I also shot a few segments with a Canon T2i set to 3aeb.
The D3 segments were shot via HDR Timelapse using the D3′s built in intervalometer. The intervalometer on the D3 allows for shooting brackets in addition to standard single frame timelapse. You just set the camera up initially as if you are going to shoot an automatic exposure bracket like you would any other AEB burst, but then go into the intervalometer setting afterwards and set it up for timelapse mode… presto… HDR Timelapse capture at your fingertips. (The D3 can fire 3, 5, 7 or 9 frames from under exposed to over exposed in AEB mode)
With the Canon T2i I had to “trick” the camera per se by using in camera AEB plus connecting a Promote Control via USB to it to fire it off. However, this was prior to the Promote Control having the new firmware which adds HDR Timelapse functionality. When I shot the sequences with the T2i it was when the Promote Control would only do standard timelapse or HDR bracketing, but not both.
So what I did was set the Canon T2i to 3aeb on the camera itself and then I set the Promote Control to standard timelapse with it shooting one frame off in 5 second intervals. So the T2i was firing off the full 3aeb sequence over 10 seconds per bracket because of the timelapse delay. Basically, the promote control was assuming it was just firing off a timelapse sequence with shots fired every 5 seconds. But the T2i I set in AEB mode instead of manual mode so that the shots fired off each 5 seconds were in fact the AEB sequence the T2i was set for.
Shot 1 would go off (normal exposure), then 5 seconds later shot 2 would go off (the under exposed frame), then 5 seconds later the shot 3 would go off (over exposed frame). Another 5 seconds would pass and start over on the normal exposure, and on and on.
Because of the 5 second delay between each AEB shot, there was time for trees/sky to move slightly, but the sequences I used the T2i on were not hurt badly because of the delay. The T2i HDR Timelapse sequences were: the bedroom shot, the shot from the top of a home showing trees/beach/water in distance and the Vegas Skyline sunset shot through a VERY DIRTY hotel window (no balcony to shoot from). So the delay between frames was not as apparent as it would be shooting other subject matter.
I used this same technique with the Promote Control to do other HDR Timelapse sequences too, but just have not gotten around to processing yet. I even shortened it up to firing off every 3 seconds in some cases, but it eats through memory cards too fast and doesn’t encompass as many changes in lighting / clouds, etc. Now that the Promote Control’s firmware is updated to support HDR Timelapse, I won’t have to use that work around in the future.
Finally, a lightly tonemapped image of the D3 in progress of shooting the HDR Timelapse sunset sequence. (Shot with a Sigma SD14)
Dynamic range of sensors varies from camera to camera. You might be surprised by the (updated) chart below because the dynamic range of sensors is not as directly related to camera costs as you might think. You’ll notice that some mid level DSLRs are way ahead of the curve over other camera’s pro level cameras when it comes to dynamic range of the sensor. This test was conducted by DXOmark.com and you can go there to read about how the tests were conducted.
|||—— UPDATED FOR NEW CAMERAS TESTED BY DXOmark.com —–|||
What is important and relevant to HDRI is the dynamic range of your sensor. It really matters. Unless you taking large and tight brackets of each scene then it really, really, REALLY matters even moreso than you think. If you are following a technique taught by someone using say a D3x and they tell you all you need is X shots, but you are using a camera at the bottom of the chart below and taking the same number… there is no way you can match that person’s results. Its mathematically impossible.
I get asked all the time how many shots do I take when I shoot, but nobody asks me with what camera. Everyone assumes they are all about the same for HDR. They aren’t.
Gear used for capturing brackets for HDR is even more critical if you are only taking 3 shots. It will directly impact the quality of your HDR file. IF YOU ARE SHOOTING FOR VFX WORK THIS IS SLIGHTLY LESS CRITICAL THAN IF YOU WILL BE TONEMAPPING FOR REALISM (only slightly less though).
I’ve captured and tonemapped over 13,000 images for architecture, real estate and commercial shoots. I’ve forfeited all my vacation time the last 4 years just to do intensive testing about what works better. Gear, post production, you name it.
I’m pretty obsessive compulsive about trying to get a realistic looking image for real estate interiors and I’ve bought and/or rented about 40% of the cameras on this list below. DXOmark.com seems on the mark as far as my personal results are concerned.
Dynamic Range of Camera Sensors (I chose to focus on modern day digital models only)
No test is perfect. DXOmark has attempted to do this objectively, but because ISO/Noise and how cameras can handle scenes, colors and other differing factors, this should not be the only way to base your purchasing decision. For example…
Someone could use the Canon 1000D (also known as the Canon XS) plus a piece of gear to get pro HDR captures.
If you bought that entry level Canon 1000D/XS for $400+ and a PROMOTE CONTROL for $299, (which will soon be adding HDR Timelapseto its functions in addition to HDR capture and standard Timelapse), then you could take very large and tight brackets with the Promote Control attached to your 1000D/XS that will capture well beyond what the in camera AEB capabilities of every single camera on that chart above. Yes, including a D3x or 1Ds Mark III. Sometimes the piece of “kit” you add to the mix can make a lower end device perform very well (dynamic range speaking here). Of course the pixel quality of a D3x/1DsMarkIII is easily better than a Canon XS, but at the cost of $8000 it should be.
HDR Timelapse is only supported in a fully automatic way using the most expensive cameras. They allow you to “Set and Forget” so you can leave it on a tri-pod to capture away. Some cameras have timelapse, but can not combine both timelapse along with capturing brackets for HDR. Automated HDR Timelapse is something that exists in the semi-pro to pro cameras that costs many thousands of dollars. That is about to change.
Promote Control
I covered the Promote Control in detail the summer of 2009 ( BLOG POST HERE ) and even created some getting started videos which are embedded in that blog post. A link to their website is also listed on that blog post if you want to view which cameras are supported.
The Promote Control allows extended HDR capture with cameras that both don’t have a HDR mode or a limited HDR mode (such as 3AEB). The Promote Control also has a separate Timelapse feature as well, but you couldn’t use both HDR Mode and Timelapse Mode at the same time. Soon you will be able to do just that. The Promote Control is being worked on (the firmware specifically) to allow HDR Timelapse.
Because the Promote Control connects via USB, this means cameras that only cost hundreds will be able to do what pro bodies that cost thousands can do. Automated HDR TImelapse capture. The developer has indicated it is now at the top of the cue for the next firmware update!!!
